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Friday 30 August 2013

Yesterday we drove to the airport and got on a plane that flew from Colombo to Kuala Lumpa. Then we napped in KL. Woke up today and went back to KLIA and got on another plane. Five and a half long, long hours later we landed in Perth. The place was full of small children screaming and crying. When one stopped another started, so there was no pause. There was also someone that kept farting and stinking out the plane. We felt sorry for the girl in front of us, who obviously gets motion sickness.

Yay, finally off the plane. The nice immigration lady looked a bit confused there for a while until she realised that looking at my passport photo and looking at The Albatross didn’t match.

Home. We had the rare bliss of a good Perth taxi.

Captains log, 14de68jk. Star Date 4.

The Tuna Files: Tea Edition, closed!



The last day

Tuna

Wednesday 28 August 2013

Today was out last day of our tour. We get on a plane tomorrow and started heading home.

Since we were up and ready by 9am this morning, and we weren’t being collected until 11am, we decided to walk down the street and around the corner to the National Museum. On the map it only looked like it would take about 20 minutes. We also figured that as it was in the morning it shouldn’t have heated up too much yet. See we are learning.

However …..

We didn’t learn enough, as it was really hot outside. We should have caught a tuk-tuk.

So by the time we got to the Natural History Museum we were a bit cooked. The museum is in a big white concrete building, we were hoping it was nicely air-conditioned. Oops, wrong again. There were some ceiling fans so we moved from fan to fan to look at the displays. The Natural History Museum is rather dated and some of the stuff animals are looking really manky. We made it to the final room, which was blissfully air-conditioned. We spent a lot of time there.

Finally deciding we could deal with the heat again, we wandered out and into the Art Gallery. Just one long room in a nice little building. The building isn’t air-conditioned, the paintings are hanging on walls where natural light falls on them, the walls have water-stains on them and one of the paintings had mould on it. It is a shame, but these pictures will not last another 10 years in these conditions.

Our guide then rang us to say he was outside the Museum, the big white building. So we walked back to the Natural History Museum only to find that he wasn’t anywhere in sight. We then wandered around a bit and came across another big white (quite beautiful) building that also was a museum. I think we should have gone in that one. There was Ernest waiting for us. We couldn’t quite bring ourselves to tell him we went into the other museum.

It was time for our tour of Colombo. First stop was independence square. This was built to celebrate their independence from the Poms. Hurrah!



We went for a drive through Cinnamon Gardens, the posh suburb where all the rich and powerful live. It is also where a lot of important military offices are located. I didn’t think I should take any photos as there were men in military fatigues every 50m holding a very big automatic gun.

Next we drove through the suburb of Fort, which is where the old British fort was and is now the Port, but full of Dutch things too. It is a lovely old church that seemed today, to be the spot for a local school to have a social outing. All the little girls, not so shyly, said hello and waved to us as we walked around the church.




Final stop was lunch, of course. A great vegetarian restaurant and our last real Sri Lankan meal.


Go fly a kite

The Albatross 

Tuesday 27 August 2013

We’re nearing the end of our trip, our final destination Colombo. So after a much needed breaky we headed off. I must admit I napped quite a lot. There isn’t that much to see apart from the standard Sri Lankan endless string of small shops and hotels and houses. We did stop a point where 1400 people lost their lives when the Tsunami smashed into a train, there is now a Buddha and a memorial.


Into town, we had a basic lunch then thought it would be good to go for a stroll. You would think we would learn. The sun here is brutally hot, and as soon as you get out of the breeze you melt, after half an hour we scuttled back to cool off.

We did wander out about 4:00pm down the road to Galle Face Green, a big open park on the shore face. It wasn’t very green, but it did have lots of people splashing in the water, a lovely cool breeze and tons of people out flying kites. It was really lovely.



Back to the hotel for dinner and more napping.

Petit-Fort

Tuna

Monday 26 August 2013

A chilled morning, although we had to had to turn around and go back to the hotel after 5 minutes. We’d forgotten to take our passports out of our room’s safe. Oops.

Passports safely in the bag, we drove to Galle, 30km down the road. We were able to check in early, which was good as Ernest could then go sort out his accommodation.

We went for a stroll along the Fort’s ramparts, it is all really rather pretty.






The main entrance at the northern end has two huge walls and the ramparts overlook the Galle International Cricket Ground. There was a local match on so it was great to sit and watch for a while.


We strolled to the Maritime Museum which is housed in the old Dutch warehouse. It was a very simple collection and history of the Sri Lanka, but still quite interesting. Gladly it was out of the sunny, but it was still quite warm.


The streets of Galle are narrow and paved. It is barely wide enough for two tuk-tuks, let alone two cars. The Old City of Galle, within the fort walls is really tiny. Looking at the map, it doesn’t look large, but you don’t expect it to be so tiny. You can walk around all the ramparts and all the streets in less than an hour. It is gorgeous.

During the tsunami of 2004, all of Galle got hit and flooded. Except for the old town, inside the big walls of the fort, this didn’t sustain any losses. Those Dutch and Portuguese knew how to build a wall.

By this time we were feeling a bit hot and The Albatross was feeling worse. He’s not feeling well and spent 2.5 hours in the afternoon having a nap. We think the dodgy prawn was a glass of white wine we had at our last hotel.

Around 5.30pm he woke up and we chanced a wander outside. It had cooled down a lot and everyone was coming out to look at the sunset. The Albatross didn’t last long and we headed back to the hotel so he could go to sleep again.

I went out to dinner, alone, and had a lovely plate of seafood with some wine. I am now rather full.


Staring at the ocean

The Albatross
Sunday 25 August 2013

So today was one of our chill out days. I’m not good at these but should try and learn. We started out with a swim just a few km’s up the road. It was nice with a swim in the warm Indian Ocean at a lovely beach. After a dip we sat under a tree and watch the ocean, eventually working out that the random shapes that appeared were turtles swimming around. Also appearing was the odd boob or two as the group of lasses sitting nearby worked out that waves and skimpy tops don’t really provide the sun protection expected. It was quite pleasant.

Anyway, we came back to the hotel and had another swim, then went out to lunch down the road at the local air force base restaurant. Good seafood, cheap beer and a pretty view over the ocean.

Back to the hotel for another dip, then a sit under some shade looking over a small wave swept lagoon, alternating between watching turtles bob around and some palm squirrels discover an abandoned sugary drink and get very excited. Palm squirrels really don’t need stimulants.






Staring at the ocean has merit.

At Leisure

Tuna
Saturday 24 August 2013

We’ve got two days ‘at leisure’ in Koggala. We are staying, apparently, in THE top hotel in Sri Lanka, The Fortress. According to the published rack rates on the inside of our room’s door, it would want to be good for that price. Our room (including the bathroom, entrance foyer and hallway) is about half the size of my house. You could swing five cats in here.

We decided to go for a walk this morning, down the road to a turtle hatchery, 35mins walk in the heat and walking along the side of the road with buses and trucks whizzing past. The hatchery is not for profit and aims to help increase the number of turtles that survive from birth. This part of the beach is popular for turtles to come to lay their eggs. The problem is that turtle eggs are often collected to either eat or sell by the locals, although they shouldn’t, and this is before they hatch and get eaten by seagulls. So this place digs the eggs up or buys them off fishermen, then they dig a hole at their place and bury them. In 65 days they’ll hatch and get put straight into the sea, fending off the birds who want to eat them. So it seems like they are doing good deeds, I hope it helps the turtle population. They also help injured turtles rehabilitate before releasing them back into the ocean.





After wandering back to the hotel and we were rather hot, so a dip in the pool fixed that. We lounged beside the pool reading our book for a few hours.

Lunch was out of the hotel at a small, local seafood place for fish and chips. We are trying, where possible, to eat outside of the hotel. In most places you are captive and have no choice. Also there just aren’t a lot of restaurant/cafes around.

The cricket’s not on, it is raining in Pommy-land, so we might go and lounge beside the pool for a while.


Random mutterings

The Albatross
Friday 23 August 2013

There is really not much to say about today. We drove from Yala down to Koggala just outside Galle, where we are spending a couple of days just chilling out. This is the section of coast where the fisherman traditionally sat on posts just off shore. Now they only do it for the tourists. Ernest therefore pulled over quickly and told us to snap before speeding away. He really doesn’t like them.


Anyway, as I don’t have anything to say, I thought I’d give some generally impressions. First of all after 30 years of civil war, there is a huge focus on improving the country. There are now big fines for littering, not keeping your verge clean, smoking, not wearing seatbelts, speeding etc. The result is that the place is a really pleasant to be. The touts aren’t aggressive and a polite no thanks is normally enough to stop them hassling you. The restaurants are clean and the food safe and brilliant. As part of the improvements they are spending a lot on improving the roads (and boy they need to). The new ones are wide and smooth, the ones that are still awaiting fixing are simply awful.

Sri Lanka’s been a really nice surprise.
 



Where there wild things are

Tuna

Thursday 22 August 2013

Bang, bang, thump, rattle. What in the world was that noise? It sounded like a horse cantering across my roof. On inspection outside I heard breaking branches, leave rustling and monkey scarpering up the roof of the room across the path. So I spent the next 20 minutes watching the monkey play on the ground outside our front door.





We then had breaky and went for a walk along the beach. I didn’t realise how close we were. There is a security man whose job it is to make sure the tourists stay between the flags and don’t go for a swim. I think it is more about keeping the tourists away from the fishermen and not to annoy them.


It was dip in the pool time, it was only 10am. The water was lovely and warm. The monkeys all seemed to be all down at the pool. They came up to the steps of the pools for a drink. Rather cute. But they also sat on the pool chairs, unfortunately one of them started eating some blokes tracky derps. Really funny, but it got better when the bloke decide to move his and his family’s stuff to the other end of the pool and the monkeys followed. The monkeys seem to have a pattern for the mornings. Run, jump and swing their way from one end of the pool to the other. Only moving when Pablo the Pool Boy (all dressed in white) walks near them. This went on for at least an hour.




Getting out of the pool we chose pool chairs that face away from the pool but towards the tank/lake. I don’t want to watch tourist swim. Instead we spent a lovely two hours watching the water buffalo not move, the birds hunt for fish and a small crocodile bobbing up and down at the water’s edge occasionally thrashing when he caught a fish. Eventually it became lunch time so we made ourselves move.



We had an afternoon safari in Yala National Park booked, so we headed off around 2.30pm. There were lots of safari jeeps heading into the Park, many of them over took us and we got covered in their dust. Eventually we came to a place that was packed with over 10 jeeps and people pointing. I kept looking but I couldn’t see what they were pointing at. Eventually we were allowed to move forward and there was a leopard in a tree. I was really cool, and it didn’t seem to mind that there were jeeps full of tourists all clambering for a photo and making a huge amount to noise.


 We got really lucky as we were driving down one of the many dirt tracks our driver/guide Ernest spotted a leopard in a tree. The leopards lay there for a while and then got up and climbed down the tree. Our jeep driver then drove about 40m down the road where there is a small watering hole. The theory was the leopard was coming for a drink. About 10 mins later the leopard sauntered down to the watering hole to have a drink. After the leopard had finished drinking, it walked around the watering hole towards us, our jeep driver moved the jeep about 10m forward. The leopard then came out of the bushes and walked across the road directly in front of the jeep. So close, so absolutely amazing. We were all very, very happy.







Off we headed to other parts of the Park to find more leopards or elephants or crocodiles or birds or water buffalo or deer or peacocks or wild boar. We saw so much wildlife.








 Finally back to the hotel, time for a beer. Oh and a shower to get rid of all the dust we’d accumulated on our 3 hour safari.

The hotel has all cabins as its room. So you don’t have any adjoining walls with people, they are in a cabin about 20m away. This means the cabins are spread out through the trees. On the way back to the restaurant from our room, I came across a group of about 8 baby wild boar wandering across the path. Waiting a couple of seconds and then mum or dad wild boar wandered across the path.

A lovely dinner and off to sleep.


Down on the Bijou

The Albatross

Wednesday 21 August 2013

We’re deep down south in Gator Country. Actually they’re not gators, but there are at least 2 fairly large crocs living less than 100m from our cabin. They’re not a problem apparently, but the wild boars and elephants mean you should be escorted back to you room. Cool!

We started the day with a walk up little Adam’s Peak at 6:00am. Adams peak is one of the most challenging climbs in Sri Lanka, Little Adam’s isn’t, and we were back at 7:00am having spent half an hour on top in a lovely cool breeze. The view looked much like that from our hotel room, but without Little Adams Peak in the way.





So most of today we headed to the south-east corner of Sri Lanka down to the coast to Tissamaharama (Tissa) . This is the kick off point to Yala National Park which we shall do tomorrow. The road was good, the curry brilliant, and the sunset ok. Oh the hardships of travel.